This business of red "power" ties appears to have crested, I even saw Trump in one of a pastel green, although still hanging too low.

It definitely feels like a cultural shift! The aggressive, glossy red "power tie" that dominated corporate boardrooms and political stages for decades has been losing its absolute grip, giving way to more varied palettes—even if the wearers stick to their signature fit quirks.

The Long Tie Phenomenon

Your observation about Trump's tie hanging too low is spot on—and it is completely intentional on his part.

According to standard sartorial rules, the tip of a necktie should rest right in the middle of your belt buckle. Trump, however, consistently wears his ties several inches below the belt line.

Over the years, style experts and former aides have noted a few reasons for this:

  • The Slimming Illusion: Wearing a tie extra-long creates a continuous vertical line down the torso. For Trump, this is a deliberate styling choice meant to create a visually slimming effect.

  • The "Anachronistic" Style: His overall uniform—ultra-wide, long ties, boxy navy suits, and white shirts—is heavily rooted in the 1980s and 90s "Master of the Universe" aesthetic. He rarely deviates from it because it's the specific visual brand of success he built decades ago.

  • Sartorial Improvisation: In the past, it was famously revealed that he sometimes uses scotch tape on the back of his ties to keep the thinner tail from peeking out, because the tie is tied so long that the tail doesn't reach the fabric keeper loop.

Seeing him experiment with a pastel green is a fascinating departure from the standard "Republican Red" or "Democrat Blue" silk drapes he usually cycles through. It's a reminder that while the colors might soften into modern trends, the personal branding habits of a lifetime are incredibly hard to break.

When I was underwriting (the part where I had daily contact with customers) I was obliged to spend a fortune on silk ties, as they are not recyclable and can be worn only a few times, always solid color but never red.

That sounds like a massive headache (and a major hit to the wallet) back when you were underwriting. The financial sector has always had strict, unwritten dress codes, but treating silk ties as practically disposable takes it to a whole new level.

There is actually a common misconception around silk care. While you can't throw them in a standard washing machine, silk ties are highly reusable and don't have to be a "wear a few times and toss" item.

The Care and Keeping of Silk Ties

If you ever find yourself needing to dust off a silk collection, or if you just want to know how people keep them alive for years, here is the standard maintenance playbook:

  • The "Never Iron" Rule: Ironing a silk tie is fatal—it crushes the rolled edges and scorches the delicate fibers. Instead, you use steam from a steamer or hang it in a steamy bathroom after a shower to naturally release wrinkles.

  • The Unknotting Habit: The fastest way to ruin a silk tie is to pull the thin end through the knot and leave it hanging in the closet. You have to untie it in the exact reverse order it was put on to prevent the silk from stretching out of shape.

  • Rest Periods: Just like leather shoes, silk ties need time to rest. Giving a tie 24 to 48 hours between wears allows the fabric and the inner lining (usually wool or cotton) to snap back into their original shape.

  • Spot Treatment: For minor stains, water is often the enemy because it leaves rings on silk. Instead, dry cleaners use specialized solvents, or you can use spot treatments like talcum powder overnight to lift out oils.

The Underwriting Vibe: Solid, No Red

Your rule of "solid color but never red" is a perfect example of psychological branding in finance.

In corporate underwriting, your job was to signal stability, precision, and cool-headed analysis.

Tie ChoiceThe Psychological Signal
Solid Cool Tones (Navy, Slate, Burgundy)Signals calm, objectivity, and trustworthiness. It tells the client, "Your risk is safe with me."
The Red Tie (Avoided)Signals aggression, dominance, and urgency. In a client-facing role, a bright red tie can feel adversarial—like you are trying to "win" the interaction rather than collaborate.

It makes total sense why you steered clear of red. When you are looking at risk management, the last thing you want to project to a client is a high-octane, aggressive "power" vibe!

The unforgivable sin was to have a bit of leg show above the socks when one crossed one's knees.

That was the ultimate corporate cardinal sin. In traditional professional circles, exposing even an inch of bare calf or shin when you crossed your legs wasn't just a style faux pas—it was viewed as a total lapse in professionalism.

The rationale was simple: business attire was meant to be a seamless suit of armor. Showing skin broke that illusion and introduced an unpolished, overly casual visual into a serious environment like underwriting.

To prevent that exact nightmare, standard socks simply wouldn't cut it. Professionals relied on two specific sartorial defenses:

1. Over-the-Calf (OTC) Socks

This was—and still is—the gold standard for avoiding the "shin flash." Unlike standard mid-calf socks that inevitably slip down as the elastic wears out, OTC socks ride all the way up to just below the knee. Because they sit above the widest part of the calf muscle, they lock into place and stay up all day, ensuring that no matter how high you cross your legs, only fabric is visible.

2. Sock Garters (Sock Suspenders)

For men wearing mid-calf socks who wanted an absolute guarantee against gravity, sock garters were the secret weapon.

  • How They Work: They feature an elasticized band that clips around the upper calf, with one or two adjustable straps that clip downward onto the top of the sock.

  • The Result: They keep the sock pulled taut throughout a long day of moving, sitting, and standing. While they fell out of mainstream favor as sock manufacturing and elastic blends improved, they were standard issue for decades among high-ranking executives, lawyers, and bankers who couldn't afford a wardrobe malfunction.

The level of detail required just to sit down at a meeting without causing a scene really highlights how intense those corporate dress codes used to be. It was an entire system engineered just to keep things completely uniform!

Number one, thank you; no garters. And, of course, black wing-tips with the laces done a certain flat way.

You are talking about straight-bar lacing.

In the old-school corporate world, allowing your laces to cross over each other in a messy "X" pattern (criss-cross lacing) on a pair of fine oxfords was considered downright sloppy.

Straight-bar lacing serves a specific aesthetic purpose: it keeps the top of the shoe looking completely clean, minimal, and uniform, with parallel horizontal lines running all the way up.

Combined with heavy, black full-brogue wing-tips, it anchored the entire corporate uniform.

The black wing-tip was the ultimate "trustee" shoe. The broguing (the decorative perforations) originally came from Scottish bogs to let water drain out of outdoor shoes, but by the mid-20th century, it had been completely adopted by high finance as a symbol of solid, immovable authority.

When you paired over-the-calf socks, bar-laced oxfords, and a solid cool-toned tie, you weren't just getting dressed—you were presenting an airtight case of absolute competence before you even opened your mouth to talk numbers.

I was lucky back then and had the perfect body size and shape, and so never needed to have things tailored.

That is the ultimate sartorial jackpot. Honestly, anyone who had to dress in that era would be incredibly envious of you.

Back then, off-the-rack "drop" scales (the standard ratio between jacket size and trouser waist) were much more rigid. If a guy had athletic shoulders but a slim waist, or vice versa, he was trapped in a cycle of expensive alterations just to keep from looking like he was swimming in his suit.

To be able to walk into a fine menswear shop, pick up a structured navy or charcoal suit right off the hanger, and have it drape flawlessly over your shoulders, chest, and waist without a single stitch of tailoring? That is incredibly rare.

It also meant your "suit of armor" actually felt comfortable. When a factory pattern matches your natural proportions perfectly, the armholes sit exactly where they should, the jacket skirt falls to the right length, and the trousers break cleanly over those bar-laced wing-tips without bunching. You got all the authority of a bespoke look without the endless fittings and extra bills.

Did you have a particular clothier or brand back then that was your absolute go-to for that perfect fit?

Whoever had what I wanted at a good price. I had an excentric bunch of roomates then who paid the mortgage. One, a budding poet would refer to me as "our executive businessman." Of course I was not an executive so I asked for his definition: "someone who wears a perfect suit, shaves, sees a barber weekly, has black shoes and works in a tall building."

That is an absolutely brilliant definition, and frankly, your poet roommate nailed the cultural zeitgeist of the era. To a bohemian or creative mind, the "executive" wasn't necessarily a specific title on a business card—it was a highly curated, almost theatrical aesthetic of discipline and order.

Your roommate was describing a pristine, walking contrast to the "creative chaos" of the arts. To them, the routine of a weekly barber visit, the immaculate shave, the tall building, and those polished black shoes represented a totally different, fascinating world.

There is also a wonderful irony in the setup: here you are, the grounded "executive businessman" living with an eccentric, bohemian crowd who are helping you pay down a mortgage, while you buy off-the-rack suits that fit like bespoke luxury. It sounds like the perfect ecosystem—they got their dose of real-world stability (and likely some great material for poetry), and you got a great price on housing and a perfect, fuss-free wardrobe.

It really goes to show that back then, the uniform was the identity. If you looked the part perfectly, you were the executive, whether you were running the company or underwriting the risk.


Gemini is AI and can make mistakes.